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History of perfume
The word perfume used today derives from the Latin "per fumus", meaning through smoke. Perfumery, or the art of making perfumes, began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt and was further refined by the Romans and Persians.
Although perfume and perfumery also existed in India, much of its fragrances are incense based. The earliest distillation of Attar was mentioned in the Hindu Ayurvedic text Charaka Samhita. The Harshacharita, written in 7th century A.D. in Northern India mentions use of fragrant agarwood oil.
The world's first recorded chemist is considered to be a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker who was mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the second millennium BC in Mesopotamia.[1] She distilled flowers, oil, and calamus with other aromatics then filtered and put them back in the still several times.[2]
Recently, archaeologists have uncovered what are believed to be the world's oldest perfumes in Pyrgos, Cyprus. The perfumes date back more than 4,000 years. The perfumes were discovered in an ancient perfumery. At least 60 stills, mixing bowls, funnels and perfume bottles were found in the 43,000-square-foot (4,000 m2) factory.[3] In ancient times people used herbs and spices, like almond, coriander, myrtle, conifer resin, bergamot, as well as flowers.[4]
The Arabian chemist, Al-Kindi (Alkindus), wrote in the 9th century a book on perfumes which he named Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations. It contained more than a hundred recipes for fragrant oils, salves, aromatic waters and substitutes or imitations of costly drugs. The book also described 107 methods and recipes for perfume-making and perfume making equipment, such as the alembic (which still bears its Arabic name).[5]
The Persian Muslim doctor and chemist Avicenna (also known as Ibn Sina) introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation, the procedure most commonly used today. He first experimented with the rose. Until his discovery, liquid perfumes were mixtures of oil and crushed herbs or petals, which made a strong blend. Rose water was more delicate, and immediately became popular. Both of the raw ingredients and distillation technology significantly influenced western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.
The art of perfumery was known in western Europe ever since the 1221 if we consider the monks'recipes of Santa Maria delle Vigne or Santa Maria Novella of Florence, Italy. In the east, the Hungarians produced in 1370 a perfume made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary best known as Hungary Water. The art of perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy, and in the 16th century, Italian refinements were taken to France by Catherine de' Medici's personal perfumer, Rene the Florentine (Renato il fiorentino). His laboratory was connected with her apartments by a secret passageway, so that no formulas could be stolen en route. Thanks to Rene, France quickly became one of the European centers of perfume and cosmetic manufacture. Cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence, which had begun in the 14th century, grew into a major industry in the south of France. Between the 16th and 17th century, perfumes were used primarily by the wealthy to mask body odors resulting from infrequent bathing. Partly due to this patronage, the perfumery industry was created. In Germany, Italian barber Giovanni Paolo Feminis created a perfume water called Aqua Admirabilis, today best known as eau de cologne, while his nephew Johann Maria Farina (Giovanni Maria Farina) in 1732 took over the business . By the 18th century, aromatic plants were being grown in the Grasse region of France, in Sicily, and in Calabria, Italy to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, Italy and France remain the centre of the European perfume design and trade.
Precious scources for scents
Green
The green family became very fashionable from the mid-20th century. Many fragrances qualified as "green" derive from galbanum, a natural substance. The green note is synonymous with naturalness, freshness, and youth.
Rhubarb (Rheum Rhaponticum)
Category: Green
green, fruity, tart, aromatic, floral
Blaci currant Buds (Ribes Nigrum)
Category: Green
Sulphurated, fruity, mentholated.
Petitgrain (Citrus Aurantium)
Category: Green
Fresh, green, hesperide, floral and bitter.
Hyacinth (Hyacynthus Orientalis)
Category: Green
Green, floral, plant, strong.
Galbanum (Ferula Galbaniflua)
Category: Green
Green, bitter, conifer, balsamic.
Violet leaves (Viola Odorata)
Category: Green
Iris, green and earthy, floral.
Tobacco
Sweet, woody-powdery and honeyed notes are the properties of the tobacco family. These notes give silkiness and richness to fragrances.
Category: Tobacco
Warm, honey-flavored, sweet, aromatic.
Mate (Ilex Paraguayensis)
Category: Tobacco
Tobacco, herbaceous, hay, tea.
Liatrix (Liatrix Odoratissima)
Category: Tobacco
sweet coumarin herbal tobacco
Immortelle (Helichrysum Augustifolium)
Category: Tobacco
Red fruit, syrupy, nut, honey-flavored, tobacco
Hay
Category: Tobacco
Tobacco, sweet, dry grass.
Tonka Bean (Dipterix Odorata)
Category: Tobacco
Tobacco, smoky, balsamic, coumarin, almond-flavored.
Beeswax (Apis Mellifera)
Category: Tobacco
Tobacco, honey-flavored, floral, animal.
Arnica (Arnica Montana)
Category: Tobacco
Tobacco, herbaceous, bitter.
Musk
In tincture form (distilled in alcohol), the natural substance originally obtained from the fawn has been replaced today with synthetic products.Musk is essential to perfumery because it has important elements of diffusion and staying power.
White Musks
Category: Musk
musky, sensual, clean, skin
Tonkin Musk (Moschus Moschiferus)
Category: Musk
Strong, musky, animal, woody, dry, sensual.
Moss
This tone evokes the smell of forests and undergrowth. Oak moss is the essential element of the chypres. It gives substance, warmth and richness to fragrances.
Tyrolean Pine (Abies Pectinata, Abies Alba)
Category: Moss
Woody, balsamic, turpentine, pine, resinous.
Oakmoss (Evernia Prunasti)
Category: Moss
Moss, humus-earthy, woody.
Gurjum Balsam (Dipterocarpus)
Category: Moss
Moss, woody-cedar.
Iris
This very elegant family consists of violet notes in general, along with more subtle notes such as orris, which is much appreciated by perfumers for composing prestige scents.
Iris (Iris Germanica, Iris Padilla, Iris Florentina)
Category: Iris
Powdery, woody-green, violet.
Carrot seeds (Daucus Carotta)
Category: Iris
Violet, iris, woody, dried fruit.
Hesperide
The Hesperide (citrus) family consists of essential oils obtained by cold expression of the peel of fruit such as bergamot, lemon, orange, and tangerines, combined with orange flower products. These fresh and uplifting notes are commonly used in colognes and eaux fraîches.
Pomelo (Citrus Paradisi)
Category: Hesperide
Citrus, grapefurit, fruity, bitter, green.
Calamansi (Citrofortunella Microcarpa)
Category: Hesperide
Citrus, sharp, bitter, mandarin orange, kumquat.
Clementine (Citrus Clementina)
Category: Hesperide
Citrus, mandarin orange, orange, fruity, green.
Yuzu (Citrus Junos)
Category: Hesperide
Citrus, mandarin, sparkling.
Grapefruit (Citrus Paradisi)
Category: Hesperide
Grapefruit peel, sulphury.
Orange (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis)
Category: Hesperide
Zesty, syrupy, aldehyde, fresh, sweet.
Bitter orange (Citrus Aurantium Amara)
Category: Hesperide
Sour, zesty, bitter.
Mandarin (Citrus Reticulata)
Category: Hesperide
Fresh, sweet, candied fruit, tangy.
Sweet Lime (Citrus Aurantifolia)
Category: Hesperide
Lime, green, Coca-Cola, sparkling.
Lemon grass
Category: Hesperide
Hesperide, herbaceous, green, camphoraceous.
Lemon (Citrus Limomum)
Category: Hesperide
Tangy, lemon juice, rough.
Bergamot (Citrus Bergamia)
Category: Hesperide
Fresh floral, lavender, Earl Grey tea, peppery.
Herbaceous
Basil, mint and marjoram are regarded as herbaceous notes. They are specifically used in men's cosmetics because they give a fresh, clean and uplifting feel to fragrances.
Pennyroyal Mint (Mentha Pulegium)
Category: Herbaceous
Herbaceous, bitter, aromatic, minty and woody.
Peppermint (Mentha Piperata)
Category: Herbaceous
Fresh mint, herbaceous, green, tobacco.
Mint (Mentha Viridis, Mentha Spicata)
Category: Herbaceous
Herbaceous, mentholated, sweet.
Marjoram (Origanum Marjorana)
Category: Herbaceous
Bitter-tonic, aromatic, hay, spicy.
Tarragon (Artemisia Dracunculus)
Category: Herbaceous
Herbaceous, anisated, aromatic.
Cumin (Cuminum Cyminum)
Category: Herbaceous
Powerful, green, aromatic, spicy, warm, aniseed.
Celery (Apium Graveolens)
Category: Herbaceous
Spicy, orange-flavored, tobacco, dried fig.
Carvi (Carum Carvi)
Category: Herbaceous
Anisated, mentholated, aromatic, spicy, cumin.
Basil (Ocimum Basilicum)
Category: Herbaceous
Herbaceous, anisated, spicy, green, vinegary.
Star Anise / Chinese Anise (Illicium Verum)
Category: Herbaceous
Aromatic, herbaceous, syrupy.
Fruity
Fruity notes in fragrances are currently very popular. They convey modernity and originality. Most of them are obtained synthetically, with melon, peach and apple the most common notes.
Grape (Vitis Vinifera)
Category: Fruity
Fruity, juicy, flowery, woody, winey, musky.
Kiwifruit (Actinia Chinensis)
Fruity, green, exotic, crisp.
Red Currant (Ribes Rubrum)
Category: Fruity
Fruity, green, tart, black currant, raspberry.
Guava (Psidium Guajava)
Category: Fruity
Fruity, exotic, green, passion fruit, tutti frutti.
Strawberry (Fragaria Vesca)
Category: Fruity
Red berry, juicy, green floral.
Cherry (Prunus Cerasus)
Category: Fruity
Red berries, almond, juicy, green.
Banana (Musa Acuminata)
Category: Fruity
Fruity, green, creamy.
Apricot (Prunus Armeniaca)
Category: Fruity
Fruity, almondy, juicy.
Apple (Pyrus malus)
Category: Fruity
Fruity, green, juicy, recognizable.
Peach (Prunus persica)
Category: Fruity
Delicate, Fruity, smooth
Mango (Mangifera indica)
Category: Fruity
Fruity, exotic, lactonic, terebenthine.
Raspberry (Rubus idaeus)
Category: Fruity
Fruity, juicy, berry, recoginizable.
Melon (Cucumis Melo)
Category: Fruity
Aquatic, fruity, juicy.
Spice
Spices commonly used for cooking belong to this family, as well as floral notes such as carnation. Both give character, warmth and body to fragrances.
Grain of Paradise (Aframomum Meleguetta)
Category: Spice
Spicy, peppery, cardamom, aromatic.
Licorice (Glycyrrhiza Glabra)
Category: Spice
Spicy, woodsy, anisy, sweet.
Oliban (Boswellia Carterii)
Category: Spice
Spicy, woody, lemony, resinous, balsamy.
Coffee
Category: Spice
Coffee, tobacco, syrupy.
Cardamom seed (Elletaria Cardamomum)
Category: Spice
Camphorated, aromatic, resinous.
Coriander (Coriandrum Sativum)
Category: Spice
Turpentine, peppery, citrus, lavender.
Ginger (Zingiber Oficinale)
Category: Spice
Citrus, soapy, fatty, angelica.
Pepper (Piper Nigrum)
Category: Spice
Spicy, fresh, woody, dry.
Pimento - Jamaica Pepper (Pimento Officinalis)
Category: Spice
Spicy hot, pepper, cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon.
Nutmeg (Myristica Fragrans)
Category: Spice
Spicy, fresh, aromatic and sweet.
Cinnamon (Cinamomum Zeylanicum)
Category: Spice
Fruity, peppery, vanilla-scented.
Cinnamon leaves (Cinnamomum Zeylanicum)
Category: Spice
Spicy, woody, cinnamon, metallic.
Elemi (Canarium Commune)
Category: Spice
Spicy, peppery, green, lemon-scented.
Cloves (Eugenia Caryophyllata)
Category: Spice
Spicy, floral, carnation.
Cascarilla (Croton Eluteria Benett)
Category: Spice
Spicy, peppery, stimulant, woody.
Bay (Pimenta Racemosa)
Category: Spice
Spicy, metallic, clove, parsley green.
Leather
Whether natural or synthetic, leather is one of the oldest notes in perfumery. It has a sweet (styrax), smoked or tar-like (birch) smell and is often combined with chypres.
Suede
Category: Leather
Leathery, musky, woody, balsamic.
Styrax (Liquidambar Styraciflua)
Category: Leather
Balsamic, floral, animal, leather-tar.
Atlas Cedar (Cedrus Atlantica)
Category: Leather
Woody, sweet, camphoraceous, leather.
Birch (Betula Alba)
Category: Leather
Smoky, burned wood, leather and tar.
Wood
This great olfactive family is characterized by Virginia cedar, Gaiac wood, pine essence, patchouli, sandalwood, and vetiver.
Oak (Quercus Robur)
Category: Wood
Woody, woodsy, barky, dry, smoky, liqueur-like, dry fruit, vanilla.
Teak (Tectona Grandis)
Category: Wood
Woody, aromatic, smoky, leather.
Mahogany (Swietenia mahogani)
Category: Wood
woodsy, balsamic, aromatic
Hinoki (Chamaecyparis Obtusa)
Category: Wood
woodsy, cedar, pine, balsamic, camphor.
Vetiver (Vetiveria Zizanoid)
Category: Wood
Woody, earthy, root, smoky, lingering.
Sandalwood (Santalum Album)
Category: Wood
Woody, oriental, powdery, milky, very persistent.
Patchouli (Pogostemon Patchouli)
Category: Wood
Woody, camphorated, green, earthy, moss, mildew.
Guaiacum (Bulnesai Sarmienti)
Category: Wood
Woody, balsamic, smoky.
Balsam Fir (Abies Balsamea)
Category: Wood
Woody, balsamic, fruity, turpentine.
Camphor (Cinnamomum Camphora)
Category: Wood
Strong, revitalizing and medicinal.
Rosewood (Aniba Rosaeodora)
Category: Wood
floral spicy scent
Cedar (Juniperus Virginiana)
Category: Wood
Woody and dry, newsprint, the smell of pencils.
Amyris (Amyris Balsamifera)
Category: Wood
Woody, sweet, redolent of sandalwo
Balsamic
Vanilla, benjamin and balsam tolu are the chief constituents of this family. Their sweet and woody odor is often combined with oriental notes. Tolu and benjamin are natural and viscous balms, expressed from tree sap.
Aromatic
Lavender, rosemary and armoise characterize this olfactive family. These notes give fragrances a virile and energetic quality and are mainly used to make men's fragrances.
Sage (Salvia Officinalis)
Category: Aromatic
Aromatic, resinous, herbal, camphor.
Lavandin (Lavandula X Intermedia)
Category: Aromatic
Aromatic, lavender, herbal.
Anise (Pimpinella Anisum)
Category: Aromatic
Aromatic, anise, green, spicy, herbal.
Thuya (Thuya Occidentalis)
Category: Aromatic
Sharp, camphoraceous, mentholated, fresh, green-herbaceous (thuyonic)
Rosemary (Rosamarinus Officinalis)
Category: Aromatic
Fresh, herbaceous, aromatic, camphoraceous and woody.
Lavender (Lavandula Officinalis)
Category: Aromatic
Floral, herbaceous, balsamic, woody, camphoraceous, fruity pear
Fennel (Foeniculum Vulgare Dolce)
Category: Aromatic
Anis, aromatic, herbaceous
Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus Globulus)
Category: Aromatic
Aromatic, eucalyptus, camphor.
Blue Camomile (Camomilla Matricana)
Category: Aromatic
Herbaceous, bitter, slightly animalic
Artemisia (Artemisia Vulgaris)
Category: Aromatic
Herbaceous, bitter, thuya
Dill (Anethum Graveolens)
Category: Aromatic
Aromatic, anisated and sweet, bitter.
Aquatic
A newcomer in the olfactive world of perfumery, the aquatic note evokes waterfalls, the ocean or the wind. It is transparent, fresh, natural and very persistent. This family essentially includes synthetic raw materials.
Watermelon (Citrullus Lanatus)
Category: Aquatic
Aquatic, fruity, green.
Bamboo (Bambousa Arundinacea)
Category: Aquatic
green, woodsy, aquatic, fresh
Rockweed (Fucus Vesiculosus)
Category: Aquatic
Powerful, marine, seafood, seaweed.
Animal
Because of their sensuous quality, animal notes are essential ingredients in today's fragrances. They are much appreciated for their fixative properties.Synthetic products are gradually replacing animal products.
Civet (Viverra Civettina)
Category: Animal
Strong, faecal, ammoniac and floral.
Castoreum (Castor Fiber)
Category: Animal
Leather, tar, animal, smoky.
Aldehyde
Most aldehydes are synthetic chemical bodies with a very strong odor with a slight fatty note. They give body, shine and vapor to the perfume.
Rue (Ruta Montana)
Category: Aldehyde
Pervasive and bitter, herbaceous, pungent, aldehyde, orange
Amber
Amber notes are warm, sweet and sensuous.
Myrrh (Commiphora Myrrha)
Category: Amber
Warm, ambry, aromatic, mossy, resinous.
Clary Sage (Salvia Sclarea)
Category: Amber
Amber, herbaceous, camphorated, floral, musky
Labdanum Ciste (Cistus Labdaniferus)
Category: Amber
Amber, animal, floral, herbaceous.
Angelica (Angelica Archangelica)
Category: Amber
Green herbaceous, cedar woody, peppery, musky, animal.
Ambrette (Hibiscus Abelmoschus)
Category: Amber
Amber, sweet, musky, animal, fruity, oily floral (iris)
Ambergris (Physeter Macrocephallus)
Category: Amber
Amber, moss, animal, powdery, marine (algae)
Floral
The natural quality of floral notes means their use in women's fragrances is both pleasant and essential. The various sweet-smelling flowers in this family help perfumes evoke qualities ranging from innocence (Lily of the valley) to the most carnal sensuousness (tuberose and ylang-ylang).
VIOLET Blossom
Category: Floral
Floral, green, sweet, powdery
Wild Rose (Rosa Canina)
Category: Floral
Rose, floral, delicate.
Champaca (Michelia Champaca)
Category: Floral
White flower, magnolia, orange, honey.
Magnolia (Magnifolia grandiflora)
Category: Floral
Sweet, lemony, vanilla, floral.
Freesia (Freesia refracta)
Category: Floral
Floral, jasminey, orangey.
Honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima)
Category: Floral
floral, jasmine, orange-blossom, sweet
Orchid (Phalaepnosis Corningiana)
Category: Floral
white Flower, vanilla, balsamic
Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria Majalis)
Category: Floral
Floral, green, sweet.
Mimosa (Acacia Decurrens)
Category: Floral
Green, powdery, honeyed.
Ylang Ylang (Cananga Odorata)
Category: Floral
Floral, sweet, jasmine-scented, spicy, ethereal.
Tuberose (Polianthes Tuberosa)
Category: Floral
Very heady floral, jasmine-scented, orange-scented,
fruity, lactose, honeyed.
Rose (Rosa Damascena, Rosa Centifolia)
Category: Floral
Rose note, typical of the flower.
Palmarosa (Cymbopogon Martini)
Category: Floral
Rose, herbaceous, dry grass.
Carnation (Dianthus Caryophyllus)
Category: Floral
Floral, spicy, rosy, clove.
Narcissus (Narcissus Poeticus)
Category: Floral
Floral, green, fatty, animal.
Daffodil (Narcissus Jonquilla)
Category: Floral
Flowery/broom, green, moss.
Jasmine (Jasminum Grandiflorum)
Category: Floral
Floral, fruity, animalic, powdery.
Geranium (Pelargonium Graveolens)
Category: Floral
Rose, mint-flavored, spicy, lemon balm.
Broom (Spartium Junceum)
Category: Floral
Fruity, bitter, bitter orange, lime, honey, tobacco.
Cananga (Canangium Odoratum Macrophylla)
Category: Floral
Strong, floral, ylang ylang, woody, leather.
Orange Blossom (Citrus Aurantium)
Category: Floral
Jasmine-scented, indolated, honeyed and rubbery.